A Different Las Vegas

Las Vegas, Nevada, is more than a city; it’s a cultural concept. "Vegas" means gambling, neon and lavish shows and it sets up the premise for two current network television series. Profits from its casinos spurred riverboat and Native American gaming palaces wherever local laws could be lobbied into compliance. The proliferation of competitors caused the original haven to revamp its image to a more wholesome overall destination, surrounding its cash-cow core of casinos. All of that developed in the last 50 years or so.

But if you mentioned Las Vegas a century ago, everyone would have known you meant the town in northeastern New Mexico that had been the primary rest stop and trading center of the region along the Santa Fe Trail and the first railroad line that followed it. Nestled in the foothills of the southern tip of the Sangre de Cristo mountains, that Vegas offered travelers and merchants a haven from the arduous surrounding terrain, and a focal point for east-west commerce.

Alas, in the following years, a mixed bag of politics, technology and transportation routing shifted growth to Santa Fe, Albuquerque and other cities in the region. Bad break for the local economy but good news now for vacationers craving quiet time off the beaten path. This Las Vegas is a quaint, low-key, family-friendly attraction, with no casinos or showgirls in sight. None. Nada.

What you do get is a charming town, with plenty of history, artisans, outdoor recreation and some fine restaurants - all at very friendly prices. Las Vegas today is much like trendier Taos was about 30 years ago, but with more diversity in its appearance, due to the preserved structures from its stages of growth. The town’s layout is virtually a living chronicle of the ethnic and economic evolution of the American West. Though its population is well under 20,000, Las Vegas offers more than 900 buildings listed in the National Register of Historic Places, representing all the architectural influences and eras of western expansion.

The arrival of the Santa Fe Railroad shifted the focus of development a mile, or so, from the Plaza, giving rise to East Las Vegas, and an entirely different type of development from the Spanish influences. This "New Town" section is largely Victorian. All can be appreciated by visitors on their own or in guided tours. Or for even better immersion, stay in a cozy bed & breakfast like The Carriage House, surrounded by gracious homes of yesteryear.

Lodging accommodations of all types in Las Vegas are quite user-friendly. Rooms at the two historic hotels – the Plaza and El Fidel (no relation to Castro; much older) – may start around, or even below, $50 per night! Gourmet dining at Blackjack’s Grill or La Trattoria rivals top-notch urban restaurants in a more casual setting (particularly Blackjack’s outdoor tables) and lower prices. Other local options cover the full range of ethnic tastes and budgets. How can you not feel cozy in a place name Charlie’s Spic & Span Bakery & Café?

In and near the Old Town Plaza one can find a blossoming arts scene, from Native American handicrafts to modern painters, photographers, sculptors and jewelers. Several galleries are dotted among the retail spaces, along with numerous studios of local artists. Second Tome Around and 20th Century Antiques are two cleverly-named examples among numerous shops to browse for collectibles and bargains. Several museums preserve aspects of local history. My favorite is the Rough Rider Memorial Collection. Northeastern New Mexico provided many of Teddy Roosevelt’s fabled troops, and hosted the unit’s annual reunions for over 60 years – as long as there were surviving soldiers to celebrate that colorful chapter of our history.

For recreation, Las Vegas and San Miguel County offer several pristine lakes for fishing and boating; hiking and horseback riding through mountains ranging from 4,000 to13,000 feet of elevation; whitewater rafting in the spring on the Pecos River; birding in a variety of settings, including the Las Vegas National Wildlife Refuge. Even though the stark desert east of town will look familiar to movie fans from dozens of westerns filmed there (from Tom Mix’s silent movies to recent fare like Kevin Costner’s "Wyatt Earp" and Matt Damon’s "All the Pretty Horses"), the area around Las Vegas is surprisingly green and diverse, with moderate year-round temperatures, and plenty of sunshine. The clear night skies attract so many astronomy buffs that one couple created Star Hill Inn, a cluster of finely-appointed rental cabins in the nearby mountains, surrounding an observation deck with powerful telescopes.

This Las Vegas is closer to the Spanish "vega" (a fertile plain) than its same-named Nevada neighbor. Tourists can enjoy the county’s agricultural origins in several delightful ways. From mid-summer to the early fall, you can pick your own raspberries at the Salman Ranch. Several wineries have tasting rooms within easy driving distance from town. For the most unique interactive experience, Victory Ranch invites visitors to observe and learn about its large herd of alpacas, with three scheduled daily opportunities to hand-feed the yearlings.

Las Vegas is on Interstate 25, an easy, picturesque two-hour drive from Albuquerque, or about an hour east of Santa Fe. Amtrak offers daily east-west train service, stopping at the renovated depot that Teddy Roosevelt, and many whistle-stopping presidents and candidates have visited. Billy the Kid and Jesse James, too.

For further information, including a calendar of special events and festivals, contact the Las Vegas/San Miguel Chamber of Commerce by calling 800-832-5947, or check its website, lasvegasnm.org.