MATAGORDA COUNTY , TEXAS

By Mark Glass

Regular readers may recall reading about the Canyon of the Eagles Lodge in the Texas Hill Country, west of Austin (January/February 2004). It was developed by the same conservation, recreation and tourism-friendly entity that has created a string of about 40 diverse facilities along 900 miles of the Texas Colorado River as it flows to the Gulf of Mexico . The end-of-the-line project for the Lower Colorado River Association is where the river turns to estuary and ends at the beach, in Matagorda County .

For Midwesterners, this may be the biggest treat the waterway has to offer. We have our rivers, great and small, in the Heartland, but we're sorely lacking for saltwater, and all that comes with it. Matagorda County is a couple of hours south of Houston , and west of Galveston . It’s sparsely populated, allowing a couple of getaway advantages for nature lovers – all the birding, fishing and outdoor activities of South Padre Island , or other warm coastal destinations, without the crowds. If you’re looking for the chance to enjoy the bounty of nature in relative solitude, this is the place.

Bay City , Palacios (rhymes with "flashes") and Matagorda are the principal towns in the county. Each has interesting historical and cultural spots. No big hotels or condos to be found, even along the shoreline. In fact, Bay City is nowhere near any bay, though the other two actually are. Palacios is the core of Texas ' shrimping industry; Matagorda, the state's second-oldest seaport, is near the Colorado River Delta and closest to the developing lodge and nature park plus a superb, pristine beach. All have a variety of small motels, inns and bed and breakfasts.

This picturesque area of Texas shares an economic bond with much of the Northeast and Midwest . Urbanization, and dramatic shifts in agriculture and industry (in this case, commercial fishing) have led to a shrinking population. While that may be unfortunate for local businesses, visitors derive several noteworthy benefits, beginning with the freedom to enjoy the flora and fauna, unsullied by the neon and noises of more heavily-settled destinations.

Budget-conscious travelers will particularly appreciate the value they receive around the county for lodging, dining, antiquing and recreation. Palacios' Le Jardin De La Mer Bed & Breakfast may sound fancy, but the owners are delightfully hospitable, accommodations are spacious and cozy, and the breakfasts will satisfy the heartiest appetites (and discerning palates). You won't want to miss the shrimp boil served a few blocks away at the Outrigger Restaurant, either.

Similarly deceptive is Bay City 's LagniappeTea Room. Stay with me, guys; this isn't just a place for sipping herbal brews with your pinkie extended, and munching on "rabbit food". Once you walk through the estrogen-oriented accessories shop, you'll find a menu that embraces our tastes, as well, with hearty soups and sandwiches, along with a fair assortment of spicy dishes, like Janet Jackson's (no; not that one; this one knows how to cook the things her momma taught her – and how to avoid malfunctions) Jamaican chutney.

For your sweet tooth, finish up with her delectable white-chocolate popcorn balls. A couple of other Bay City restaurants, K-2 Steakhouse and A&A Bar-B-Que, serve exactly what their names promise, what many of us go to Texas to find, and every bit as good as you'd hoped for. Again, prices are wonderful at all these restaurants. When you have pushed away from the tables, the LCRA's Nature Park and its environs offer plenty of chances to work off those calories (or carbs, depending on what you're counting). Its 1,600 acres accommodate canoeing and kayaking through the marshes, birding, hiking, fishing and beachcombing. The county boasts more migratory species than any other place in the US . It's topped the Audubon Society's Christmas bird count for the last six years. The huge white pelicans lazing around the Delta were an exciting discovery for me, though birdaholics may know of other havens for them.

Though the formal opening of the Nature Park is set for the summer of 2005, you certainly don't need to wait. Some facilities and amenities are in place. Freebird Kayak and Canoe Adventures is ready whenever you are, with a variety of tours for all skill and endurance levels. Plenty of charter operators can be found for fishing or sightseeing. There's even a 57-foot floating classroom operated by a state agency and Texas A&M, affording hands-on experience in marine life and commerce.

There are several other prime nature facilities around the county, including the Birding and Nature Center, Hummingbird Trail and a couple of national wildlife refuges. Every season of the year has its unique appeal from festivals to the variations in fauna and migratory birds. There are also several museums, including a children's museum, for an indoor change of pace.

For further details on the county's attractions, including a free visitors' guide, call 800-806-8333, or check the following websites: www.baycity.org; www.lcra.org. To learn about all of the LCRA's other facilities, 800-776-5272, ext. 3366 for a recorded message; or www.lcra.org/community/parks.html.